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Mushrooms
Mushrooms are listed as a vegetable, but are actually a fungus. This essentially means that it is an
edible "plant" without roots, flowers, seeds or leaves. Another mushroom oddity is the fact that this
plant actually thrives in the dark, unlike almost every other plant. There are approximately 38,000
different mushroom varieties, and of course not all are edible. In fact some are poisonous, and so I
recommend you only eat mushrooms that came from sources you have the utmost confidence in. Many of
these mushroom varieties grow in the wild, but most of the mushrooms you find at the market are now
grown in "controlled" environments. This controlled growing method produces literally billions of
tiny spores, which has increased production of the most common mushrooms like the white button mushroom.
Like most things, increased availability has benefited us at the cash register with more affordable
prices.
Mushrooms add a wonderful earthy quality to dishes, even plain, white domestic mushrooms. Some of the
wild, more exotic mushrooms can still be fairly expensive, but fortunately, mushrooms don't weigh much,
and a little goes a long way.
Kennett Square, Pennsylvania, is considered America's domestic button mushroom capitol, so it doesn't
come as any surprise that Pennsylvania is the leading mushroom-producing state. Kennett Square is close
to the Delaware Border, so that state is also a major supplier, as are California, Michigan, and
Illinois. Many of the specialty mushrooms come from Northern California, Oregon, and Washington.
Storage & Selection
Select button mushrooms with short stems, and choose clean, fresh-looking, plump mushrooms, which are
dry but not wrinkled. Make sure they exhibit appropriate white, tan or cream color, depending on the
variety you're buying. Avoid mushrooms with open "veils", as this is indicative of a mushroom with a
much shorter shelf life. Remember that mushrooms typically darken as they age, so pay attention to that
aging process, and use those right away. Often the "older mushrooms have developed stronger
taste-characteristics, and may exhibit a more intense mushroom flavor. When selecting specialty
mushrooms, like the increasingly popular portobellos and shiitakes, try to select the firmest and
meatiest ones you can find. Most specialty mushrooms will be dry to the touch, but should not be
too fragile. Select specialty mushrooms that exhibit a wonderful, deep, woodsy aroma. With wild
mushrooms check for any holes that indicate insect damage. A few are okay, but more than that
indicates excessive infestation. Shiitake mushrooms caps should curl under slightly, and contrary to
popular opinion, the size of the cap does not determine the quality. Mushrooms should not normally be
purchased if broken.
Paper bags are commonly recommended for storing mushrooms. The paper bag will absorb moisture from the
mushrooms, so consider putting the paper bag in a larger perforated plastic bag. This two-bag system
will allow the mushrooms to breathe but not go dry. Store mushrooms on the refrigerator shelf, and not
necessarily in the vegetable crisper drawer. Mushrooms absorb odors like a sponge, so keep them away
from foods with strong aromas. Properly stored mushrooms should last several days. Don't clean or chop
mushrooms until you're ready to use them. Mushrooms should not be frozen unless first blanched, then
covered in the blanching water before being put into the freezer. They are good candidates for drying,
canning, and pickling.
Preparation
I routinely rinse button mushrooms in a colander, then dry them quickly in paper towels. With more
delicate wild mushrooms, simply brush off dirt and debris with a mushroom brush (available at many
fine cooking stores), or a clean paintbrush. More stubborn dirt can be removed with a damp cloth or
paper towel.
Most stems are in fact edible. After cleaning, a thin slice is removed from the end of the stem. With
Shiitakes, remove and discard the tough stems. For other mushrooms like Morels and Porcini, the stems
and caps frequently are used for different purposes.
Caps have more uses than stems. They can be stuffed with all kinds of goodies, from cooked crab to spicy
sausage. Try not to overdo the stuffing because it may have a tendency to overpower the mushroom flavor.
My favorite stuffing includes the chopped caps and scallions sautéed in butter, then combined with
parsley, thyme, and flavored breadcrumbs. The mushroom stems are ideal for duxelles, and they are also
excellent in stuffings.
Mushrooms go well with many other flavorings. Among the best are garlic, scallions and shallots,
butter, olive oil, thyme, and parsley. Mushrooms are also a wonderful flavor addition for many dishes
from sautéed green beans to risottos and pastas.
The best way to bring out the flavor of mushrooms is to sauté them in butter or olive oil. Prepare
mushrooms this way (or in a similar fashion) before adding them to most dishes. Mushrooms are also
traditionally added to stir-fry recipes.
With rare exceptions, I don't particularly care for raw mushrooms, although they are obviously excellent
when added to fresh garden salads.
Oven roasting, broiling or grilling are also excellent ways to prepare mushrooms, especially meaty ones
like shiitakes. Prior to using dried mushrooms in your recipe, they should be reconstituted by soaking
them a few minutes in very hot water until they soften. Pass the remaining liquid through a kitchen
strainer prior to using them, to make sure you've removed all of the grit.
Tony's Tip
To keep white mushrooms nice and bright, wipe them with a paper towel that has been dipped in lemon
juice.
Tony's Favorite Recipe
Mushrooms à la Grecque
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Varieties
White or Button mushroom is the mainstay of the fresh mushroom market. Its color ranges from white to
beige, and it is very mild when eaten raw but the flavor increases when cooked. Generally it is
available in three sizes. The smallest is about the size of a button and is used whole in stews.
The medium size is generally sliced or chopped and the larger size can be stuffed, chopped grilled or
roasted. Flavor does not change with size.
Crimini/Cremini mushrooms are also known as Italian and Italian Brown mushrooms. They are a variation
of button mushrooms with a deeper color that can go as dark as a rich brown. Though their color gives
the impression of wild mushrooms, their taste is fairly close to the button.
Portobello mushrooms are essentially giant criminis, usually 4 to 5 inches in diameter. The Portobello
has a wide, flat cap and their dark, almost black gills are exposed. They are sold both with and without
their stems intact. Its meaty flavor and firm texture make it ideal for grilling and roasting.
Portobellos are a popular meat substitute with many vegetarians. The Portobello is sometimes called
Portabella, which is the handle the mushroom industry prefers.
Enoki, a pure white mushroom with Japanese origins, has tiny caps with long, stringy stems. They have a
sweet taste and are often served raw or barely cooked in salads or soups. They are now grown in healthy
quantities in California.
Oyster mushrooms, also called phoenix or pleurotus, and get their name because their convex cap, and
shell-like shape reminds folks of oyster shells. Their texture is thick and soft, and they are quite
chewy. Oyster mushrooms taste rather mild. Their colors can vary from gray-brown to pink to off-white
to yellow.
Angel Trumpets are a white hybrid version of oyster mushrooms.
Shitake are also known as Golden Oak, Black Forest, Black Oakwood, Oak Tree, and Chinese black
mushrooms. In the wild and under cultivation, they are grown on oak logs. Shiitakes have been cultivated
and nurtured in Japan for more than a thousand years. The umbrella-like cap has the color of brown suede
and the underbelly and stem are off-white with flecks of brown. The long thin stem is inedible, but the
cap is full of woodsy flavor, which intensifies when cooked.
Chanterelles look somewhat like trumpets-or maybe umbrellas turned inside out-with colors that can range
from pale yellow to reddish orange; the color (and the shape) varyies with the species. Chanterelles are
among the most flavorful of all wild mushrooms with hints of apricot, pepper and nuts. They are arguably
the most easily accessible exotic mushrooms.
Horn of Plenty has a shape similar to the Chanterelle's, but is a different, though related species. It
is more delicate than the Chanterelle and can be larger, up to 3 inches long, and the entire mushroom is
edible. The flavor is stronger, almost buttery when dried and reconstituted with color that ranges from
dark brown to black. The black Horn of Plenty is also known as The "Trumpet of Death."
Hen-of-the-woods & Chicken-of-the-woods are interesting varieties that do not have the traditional caps
or stems usually associated with mushrooms. They have folded fronds that look like feathers. The related
Chicken-of-the-Woods earned its moniker because of the chicken-like flavor and texture they offer. Both
mushrooms grow on hardwood stumps and can grow quite enormous, some reaching 50 pounds! The hen's flavor
is much more delicate than that of the chicken and needs less cooking time. Boiling both will soften
them before they are sliced and/or sautéed.
Hedgehog (also called a Sweet Tooth among others) has a yellow-orange cap with a thick white stem that
is somewhat off center. Instead of gills underneath, it has teeth-like protrusions. The flavor is mild.
Porcini (the singular is Porcino) also known as Cepes, are members of the Boletus family of mushrooms.
This large mushroom family is distinguished by spores under their caps instead of the standard gills
we usually find on domestic white mushrooms. Size can vary quite a bit with Porcini as they can weigh
5 pounds, and be 1' to 10' in diameter. Flavor may also vary. Most often we see them sold dried,
(which intensifies the flavor), but twice a year they are available fresh. The stems are thick, tapering
down as they meet the cap. The caps are thick, spongy and rusty brown. Porcini are meaty, the flavor
buttery and nutty, and they are especially good for grilling and stuffing.
Truffles are a true delicacy in the mushroom world because they are extremely delicious, and very hard
to find, and therefore very expensive. Depending on their availability in your area, truffle prices can
exceed $400 per pound. Grown underground on oak tree roots, these beauties are difficult to grow and
even harder to harvest. White truffles are found in Alba Italy, and black ones come from the south of
France. Both types of truffles are now being cultivated in the state of Oregon as well. Fresh truffles
are available in the winter, and if you visit your favorite gourmet food shop, you may find jarred or
canned truffles.
Morels are among the most expensive mushrooms available, and botanically- speaking are related more to
truffles than mushrooms. Their honeycombed, brown, cone-shaped caps easily identify morels. Both the
stems and caps are hollow. The caps are traditionally used for more delicate dishes since the stems are
on the tough-side. Their deep, earthly flavor adds a special dimension to many foods. Imported French
Morels, are typically smaller and darker with a smokier flavor than domestic morels, and are most often
purchased dried.
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