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Avocado Soup Though this soup can be eaten hot or cold, I prefer it cold accompanied by some baked, not fried tortilla chips. Makes 6 servings 2 ripe medium avocados 1 teaspoon Kosher salt 2 cups defatted Chicken Stock Pinch cayenne pepper 2 cups 1% low-fat milk 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives or cilantro for garnish 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon dry vermouth 1. Halve avocados and scoop out flesh into a blender or food processor. Add stock and blend until smooth. 2. Put in mixing bowl (or heavy-bottomed saucepan if serving hot) with remaining ingredients. Blend well. 3. If serving hot, heat gently to a simmer while stirring. Taste for seasonings and adjust. 4. If serving cold, chill several hours, then taste for seasonings. Sprinkle with chives or cilantro. Cooking Tip As strange as it may seem, 1% milk is actually creamier than 2% milk, which has more fat. The reason is that 1% milk has more milk solids. So save the fat and use 1% when you can.
Chicken Stock Makes about 2 quarts 4 pounds of any combination of chicken parts, giblets, or bones, including skin but excluding the liver 2 ribs celery (including leaves), cut into 1-inch pieces 10 parsley stems, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 medium carrots, scrubbed and cut into 1-inch chunks 10 whole black peppercorns 2 bay leaves 2 medium onions, peeled and cut into quarters 2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 1. Put chicken and vegetables in a pot with 4 quarts of cold water. Bring to a boil over moderate heat. Before it reaches a full boil, skim off the scum that forms on the top with a ladle or large, deep spoon. 2. Reduce heat to simmer, add seasonings, stir and cook 3 hours at a bare simmer, stirring occasionally. 3. Line a colander or large sieve with a double thickness of cheesecloth. Strain stock through cheesecloth, pressing out as much juice as possible from solids with the back of a ladle or spoon. Refrigerate until cold and skim off any fat that has risen to the top. Cold Beet Soup Unless you're Eastern European, the idea of beet soup and cold beet soup at that may not sound too appetizing. But this is easy to make, lovely to look at, and very refreshing on a hot day. Makes 6 servings 2 bunches beets with green tops attached 4 teaspoons capers, drained 1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped 1 small dill pickle, seeded and chopped 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill 1 tablespoon cider or wine vinegar Zest of 1 lemon 1 small potato, cooked, peeled and cubed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 pint nonfat sour cream 1. Remove beets from greens, leaving about 1 inch of stem on each beet. You should have about 1-1/2 pounds of beets. (Use greens for another dish.) 2. Wash beets thoroughly. 3. Put 1 inch of water in a saucepan and add a steamer basket. 4. Steam beets 30 to 45 minutes, depending on size, until a knife easily pierces them. 5. Reserve steaming water. 6. Cool beets under running water and slip off the skins. 7. Dice 1 cup of the beets and set aside with 2 teaspoons of the capers. 8. Cut remaining beets into chunks and put into a food processor with remaining ingredients except sour cream and reserved capers and beets. 9. Puree until smooth, adding a little of the cooking water if too thick. 10. Fold in reserved capers and diced beets and sour cream. 11. Refrigerate several hours. Adjust seasonings as necessary. Cooking Tip Since canned beets are one of the better canned vegetables, so you won't lose too much if you use them instead of fresh. I like to keep canned beets around for quick antipasto platters and salads as well. Cold Sweet Pepper Soup with Sage The hue of this remarkably simple dish will vary depending on the variety of sweet peppers used. I like a combination of red, yellow, and orange. Makes 4 servings 1 tablespoon butter 1 medium onion, chopped 2 pounds red, or a combination of red, yellow, and orange bell peppers, roasted, peeled, and seeded 1 quart defatted Chicken Stock Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 to 3 teaspoons fresh sage, finely chopped 1 cup evaporated skim milk 1. Put butter in a large saucepan or a small Dutch oven, preferably with a heavy bottom, and melt butter over medium heat. 2. Add onion and cook until softened, about 3 to 4 minutes. 3. Dice peppers and add to the pan. 4. Cook a few minutes, stirring do not let onion or peppers brown and then add the Chicken Stock. 5. Bring to a boil and simmer gently 30 minutes. 6. Puree in a food processor or food mill. 7. Add salt, pepper, 2 teaspoons of the sage, and the milk, and return to the pan. 8. Cook 10 minutes more without boiling. 9. Adjust seasonings and chill. Corn Chowder with Lobster You don't have to go to Maine to enjoy this dish, which makes for a hearty first course or a light lunch with crusty bread and green salad. Makes 6 servings Two 11/4 -pound lobsters 3 cups corn kernels (6 ears), cobs saved 1/2 pound red-skinned potatoes, unpeeled 2 tablespoons butter 1/3 cup chopped shallots 1 rib celery, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup warm milk Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Large pinch cayenne pepper 3 tablespoons chopped chives 1. Put lobsters in a large pot with a steamer basket and 1 inch of boiling water. 2. Cover and steam 10 minutes. 3. Cool, remove meat, and retain shells and cooking water. 4. Cut meat into 1/2 -inch pieces. (A lot of suburban supermarkets will steam lobsters for you if you feel squeamish about cooking them yourself.) 5. Add enough water to the lobster pot to make 2 quarts. 6. Break the corn cobs in half and add along with the lobster shells. 7. Bring to a boil, skimming any scum that forms on the surface. 8. Reduce heat and simmer 45 minutes. 9. Strain, pressing the solids with the back of a spoon to extract any remaining liquid. You should have about 1 quart. 10. Meanwhile, steam potatoes (see Mussel and Potato Salad), cool, and cut into 1/2 -inch cubes. Set aside. 11. Melt butter in a small kettle or large saucepan over medium heat. 12. Cook shallots and celery, stirring, until shallots soften, about 3 to 4 minutes. 13. Add flour and stir a few minutes. 14. Add lobster-corn stock and bring to a boil, stirring. 15. Lower heat and simmer 10 minutes. 16. Add corn kernels, potatoes, milk, salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. 17. Cook 5 minutes. 18. Add reserved lobster and chives. Heat a few minutes. 19. Check for seasonings. Curried Zucchini and Corn Soup A great hot-weather soup that uses low-fat buttermilk instead of cream. If you don't like buttermilk, use whole, regular milk. Makes 6 servings 1 large onion, minced 1 tablespoon canola oil 2 teaspoons curry powder 6 medium zucchini, trimmed and cut into 3/4 inch chunks 31/2 cups Chicken Stock 2 large ears corn, kernels removed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup low-fat buttermilk 1. In a large, covered, heavy-bottomed saucepan, cook onion in the oil over low heat until soft but not browned, about 10 minutes. 2. Add curry and cook a few minutes more, stirring. 3. Turn up heat to medium and add zucchini. 4. Stir a few minutes, add stock, and bring to a boil. 5. Simmer 20 minutes or until zucchini are tender. 6. Add corn and cook 5 minutes more. 7. Season with salt and pepper and let cool slightly. 8. Puree in a food processor or blender. 9. Refrigerate until cold. 10. Add buttermilk and mix well. Check for seasonings. 11. Serve lightly chilled. Escarole Soup with Spicy Meatballs This is a traditional Italian soup lightened with chicken instead of beef or pork meatballs. The key, however, is the quality of the stock. Makes 6 servings Kosher salt 1 head escarole, about 1 pound 1/2 cup bread crumbs from day-old Italian bread 4 ounces ground chicken breast meat 1 egg white 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper Freshly ground black pepper to taste 3 quarts de-fatted Chicken Stock, preferably homemade, cooked on medium-high until reduced to 2 quarts 1/3 cup acini di pepe or other tiny pasta for soups 1. Bring 3 quarts of water and 1 teaspoon salt to a boil. Have a large bowl of ice water ready. 2. Remove bottoms from escarole. 3. Stack and roll leaves. 4. Cut crosswise into 1/2 -inch strips. 5. Wash, drain, and put into boiling water. 6. Stir and cook 3 minutes. 7. Drain and put into ice water. When cool, drain. 8. In a mixing bowl, moisten breadcrumbs with a few tablespoons of water. 9. Add chicken, egg white, 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan, parsley, cayenne pepper, and salt and black pepper to taste. 10. Mix well and form into very small meatballs, slightly larger than a marble. You should have about 30. 11. Bring stock to a boil and add pasta. 12. Cook 5 minutes, stirring. 13. Add meatball and cook 2 minutes. 14. Add escarole and salt and pepper to taste. 15. Cook 5 minutes. 16. Serve, sprinkling each serving with remaining cheese. Cooking Tip To facilitate making meatballs, periodically dip the fingertips of the hand that does the rolling in a dish of water. Fresh Bean Chowder with Pistou This dish can be made with any combination of fresh beans and any kind of all-purpose potato (not a baking Idaho potato). Makes 4 servings 2 ounces pancetta, cut into small slices 1/2 cup chopped onion 2 cups any combination of shelled cranberry, lima, or other fresh beans 4 cups de-fatted Chicken Stock 2 cups cubed all-purpose potatoes (1/2 -inch dice, peeled if desired) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 clove garlic 1 tablespoon toasted pine nuts (see tip) 1 cup fresh basil leaves 2 tablespoons olive oil 1. Put pancetta in a large saucepan or small, heavy-bottom kettle over medium heat. Cook, covered, until pancetta becomes crisp, about 10 minutes. 2. Remove pancetta to paper towels and drain all fat except a thin haze, less than a teaspoon. 3. Cook onion, covered, over medium-low heat until just soft. 4. Add cranberry beans and stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, 10 minutes. 5. Add lima beans and potatoes and simmer, covered 15 to 20 minutes more, just until beans and potatoes are tender. 6. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 7. Meanwhile, with the motor running, put garlic down feed tube of a food processor. 8. Scrape down sides, turn on again and add pine nuts. 9. Scrape down, add basil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the oil. Puree until the pistou is smooth. 10. When beans and potatoes are tender, add about 1/2 -cup of the broth to the pistou just until it starts to become runny. 11. Put soup into each of 4 bowls and drizzle a few tablespoons of the pistou on top. Sprinkle with crisped pancetta. Cooking Tip As you may have guessed, pistou is another word for pesto, in this case in French. This version is considerably slimmed down by adding stock instead of oil. Flavor is enhanced by toasting the pine nuts. Gazpacho No dish brings together the summer bounty better than gazpacho. This version has corn, which adds a special texture that I love. Makes 4 servings 2 ears corn on the cob 2 pounds ripe tomatoes 3 Kirby cucumbers 1 medium sweet red or Vidalia onion, coarsely chopped 1 2/3 cups or more spicy V-8 juice (or other tomato juice that is seasoned liberally with hot sauce) 11/4 teaspoons ground, toasted cumin seeds 1/4 cup fresh basil leaves Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1. Put on a few quarts of water to boil. 2. Drop the corn on the cob in boiling water and cook about 3 to 4 minutes. (If the corn is very fresh and the kernels small, you can eliminate this step.) 3. Cool and slice off kernels. 4. Set aside, keeping the water at a boil. 5. Drop tomatoes into the boiling water for 15 seconds and drain. 6. Refresh tomatoes under cool water, peel, core, and chop coarsely. 7. Set aside. 8. Peel and coarsely chop two of the cucumbers. 9. Put them into a food processor. 10. Trim the third cucumber and cut into small dice, un-peeled. Set aside. 11. Put onion in the food processor and pulse with cucumber. 12. When coarsely pureed, add tomatoes and pulse until desired consistency. 13. Put in a bowl and add 1 2/3 cups V-8 juice. Add more for a thinner soup. 14. Add ground cumin seeds to soup. 15. Stack basil leaves, roll cigar-style, and cut crosswise into strips. 16. Add to soup. 17. Add diced cucumber and corn to soup along with salt and pepper to taste. 18. Refrigerate 1 hour or more. Adjust seasonings as desired. Parsnip and Carrot Soup with Cardamom We think of cardamom and coriander seeds as sweet spices, which is why they seem to go so well with vegetables that have a natural sweetness, such as carrots and parsnip. Makes 4 to 6 servings 1 tablespoon butter 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 pound parsnip, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks 1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2 -inch chunks 51/2 cups de-fatted Chicken Stock 3/4 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 teaspoon ground coriander Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup skim milk 1. In a large saucepan, melt butter over moderate heat and add onion. 2. Cook until softened, about 5 minutes. 3. Add parsnip, carrots, and 5 cups of the stock. 4. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer 20 minutes or until vegetables are soft. 5. Remove to a food processor to puree and return to saucepan, adding seasonings and milk. 6. Heat to a bare simmer, thinning with remaining stock and adjusting seasonings as necessary. Serve hot. Cooking Tip When pureeing soup in a food processor, make sure you have a balance of solids and liquids before pureeing to get a smooth texture. Also, don't try to puree too much at once or liquid will begin to seep out the sides of the bowl. Plantain and Lentil Stew 1 cup lentils 11/2 cups pineapple cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 plantains, peeled and cut into 3/8-inch slices 1 small onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 teaspoon Kosher salt 1 large tomato, cored and chopped Cooked rice 1. In a large saucepan, cook lentils in 2 quarts water until just barely tender, about 45 minutes. Drain, reserving liquid. 2. Wipe out saucepan. Heat oil over moderate heat. Add onion and garlic and cook until onion is soft, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add tomato and cook a few minutes. Add lentils, about 1 cup of lentil broth, pineapple, plantains, and salt. 3. Cook about 20 minutes until the stew thickens slightly. Check for salt and serve over rice. Potato and Kale Soup This is a low fat version of a well-known Portuguese dish. Makes 4 to 6 servings 4 ounces turkey kielbasa or similar spicy poultry sausage 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced 1 pound small red potatoes, quartered 6 cups defatted Chicken Stock 1/2 bunch kale, about 1/2 pound Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Hot pepper sauce to taste 1. Slice sausage thinly, then halve each slice. 2. Put oil in a Dutch oven or similar pot over medium heat. 3. Add sausage. 4. When the meat is nicely browned and slightly crisped, remove with slotted spoon to dish lined with paper towels. 5. Add the onion and garlic to the pot. 6. Cook until wilts, about 5 minutes. 7. Add potatoes and cook a few minutes, stirring. 8. Add stock and bring to a boil. 9. Lower heat and simmer, covered, 20 minutes or until potatoes are soft. 10. Mash coarsely in the pot with a potato masher or large fork. 11. Meanwhile, roll kale and cut crosswise into thin strips. 12. Put in a colander and rinse thoroughly. 13. Add to pot and stir well. 14. Add salt and pepper. 15. Cook 15 minutes or more, depending on how tough the kale is. 16. When kale is just tender, add sausage and hot pepper sauce to taste and cook 5 minutes more. 17. Taste and adjust seasonings. Quick Cucumber Soup In the dog days of summer, when we have plenty of cucumbers to go along with tomatoes and zucchini, we donít want to spend a lot of time cooking. Makes 4 servings 4 scallions, trimmed 2 medium cucumbers, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped 2 cups low-fat buttermilk 3 tablespoons fresh dill, minced Salt and white pepper to taste 3 tablespoons toasted chopped walnuts 1. Detach the green parts of the scallions and mince about 3 tablespoons. Set aside. 2. Put the white parts of the scallions and cucumbers in a food processor or blender and puree. 3. Add buttermilk, dill, salt and pepper and blend until smooth. 4. Refrigerate at least an hour, preferably several. 5. Check seasonings and adjust if necessary. 6. Stir in walnuts and sprinkle with the green parts of the scallions. Cooking Tip Though you can often substitute dried herbs (especially thyme and sage) for fresh, donít try it with dill. I find dried dill to be bitter and flavorless. Thankfully, fresh dill is available year-round. Rhubarb Soup This is a dessert soup thatís particularly refreshing after a heavy meat-and-potatoes meal. You could also serve it as a first course on a hot day. Makes 5 Servings 21/2 pounds rhubarb, trimmed of leaves and cut into 1/2 -inch pieces 11/2 cups sugar 1 cinnamon stick 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 large mangoes 3 kiwi 2 navel oranges 5 fresh mint sprigs 1. Put rhubarb in a large saucepan with sugar, cinnamon sticks, and wine. 2. Add 6 cups of water and simmer, uncovered, 45 minutes. 3. Strain liquid through a sieve and add lemon juice. Cool. You should have about 6 to 7 cups. 4. Cut mangoes into 1/2 -inch cubes. 5. Peel kiwi, halve lengthwise, and cut into 1/4 -inch-thick crescents. 6. Peel oranges and section, removing all membrane and pith. 7. Pour soup slowly into soup bowl or shallow soup plate, stopping before you get to the cloudy and unattractive dregs. You will have about 5 cups. 8. Put one cup into each of 5 soup plates. Divide fruit equally among the plates so that it looks attractive. 9. Put a mint sprig in the middle. Vegetable Stock Makes about 11/2 quarts 1 tablespoon olive oil 5 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped 1 cup each diced carrots, celery (including leaves), and onion 2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley stems 10 whole black peppercorns 4 cups of any other coarsely chopped vegetable or vegetable scraps such as mushroom stems, potato peelings, trimmings from greens, etc. 2 bay leaves 1. Put oil in a 5-quart pot over low heat. Add carrot, celery, and onion, cover and cook gently 5 to 10 minutes or until soft but not brown. 2. Add remaining ingredients along with 3 quarts of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook 2 hours, stirring occasionally. 3. Line a colander or large sieve with a double thickness of cheesecloth. Strain stock through cheesecloth, pressing out as much juice as possible, from solids with the back of a ladle or spoon. |
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