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Most of us have grown up with a pretty limited view of squash. Zucchini from our garden in the summer,
and Halloween jack-o'-lanterns and holiday pumpkin pie in the fall and winter Oh, we might have an acorn
squash here and there, but that's about it. One of the reasons we might not appreciate squash comes from
not knowing how to cook it, which means we usually overcook it.
Squash is a gourd, (a fleshy vegetable protected by a rind,) and some grow on a vine and others on a
bush. Squash is normally divided into winter and summer varieties, but since both types are now
available almost year round, it makes more sense to divide them into soft (summer) and hard-shelled
(winter) varieties. Did you know that both summer and winter squash have edible flowers? Find out more
about these delicate and delicious squash blossoms under selection, storage, and varieties.
Hard-shelled squash has grown to maturity with thicker, harder, inedible skins and firm, fully developed
seeds. The flesh is a yellow or orange color that is darker than the soft-shelled varieties with more
nutrients and a higher amount of complex carbohydrates. There is also more variety in color, size,
shape, and flavor than the soft-shelled varieties. They can range in size from a small acorn squash,
which can weigh not much more than a Rome apple, to the banana squash that can weigh 70 pounds.
Florida is the largest producer of squash, followed closely by California. Georgia and New Jersey are
also large squash-producing states.
Storage & SelectionWinter squash is more difficult to select because any defects are harder to spot. Squash that is heavy for its size is a good indicator of quality, because it will have more moisture and less of a tendency to be dry and stringy. The shells should have a deep color, but not shiny, and hard without cracks or soft spots. A shiny skin means that it was picked too early, and won't have the sweet flavor it would if picked when mature. Ideally it should have the stem still attached. Look for a stem that is rounded and dry, not collapsed, blackened, or moist. Winter squash should also be true to its color, i.e. butternut squash that is a deep orange instead of a light tan on the outside should be avoided. If you buy precut quarters or chunks wrapped in plastic, look for good interior color and fine-grained flesh. Winter squash should not be refrigerated unless cut. Stored at 50°F to 55°F away from light in a well ventilated spot with low humidity, it will keep for up to three months. Cut squash will keep about one week when wrapped tightly and refrigerated. Squash Blossoms are naturally soft and somewhat limp, but select those with closed buds, that look fresh. They are usually found from late spring through early fall in specialty produce markets. They should only be stored in the refrigerator one day as they are very perishable. Preparation Winter squash is not usually peeled before cooking although there is no reason why it can't be. The best way to accomplish this is to take a butternut squash, for example, halve it lengthwise, then put it cut side down on a work surface, and peel the skin with a sturdy vegetable peeler. To peel a round squash, leave it whole. If you want the squash to be more stable on the work surface, cut a small slice off the bottom to keep it from rolling. Cut the peeled squash in half and remove the seeds and any stringy fiber. Then halve again and cut into cubes or other desired shapes for steaming, boiling, or baking. Although it is more common to sauté shredded or small pieces of cut, soft-shelled squash until tender, there isn't any reason you can't do it with hard-shelled squash as well. Add a splash of stock or water if the pan dries out before the squash is completely cooked. Squash is usually steamed or baked unpeeled. Take an acorn squash, for example, halve it lengthwise, remove the seeds, and put it cut side down in a shallow baking pan with half an inch of water. It will cook in a 375°F oven in about 45 to 55 minutes, depending on its size. Steaming will take about the same amount of time, while cooking in a microwave uncovered at full power takes about 10 minutes. The flesh can then be scooped out for purée, or the skin can be peeled off (a lot easier than when raw.) This is particularly true with acorn and butternut varieties. The cavities of some squash are perfect for stuffing. Acorn squash offers the most variety in size and you can probably get ones small enough to make two servings when the halves are stuffed. Delicata squash is another one with a good cavity for stuffing. 
Seasonings used with winter squash are similar to what goes well with sweet potatoes: brown sugar,
vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, and ginger (fresh, powdered, or candied.) Cooked garlic
adds a nutty mellowness and Chinese five-spice powder adds an exotic note. Spaghetti squash is the
exception, which in many ways can be treated like pasta with the same kinds of sauces, especially tomato
sauce.
Squash blossoms are prepared most often coated with a light batter, and sautéed. They can also be
stuffed with ingredients such as soft cheese and then baked, or dipped in batter and fried.
Tony's TipTo toast the seeds of winter squash, rinse them well in a colander and let them dry. Spread on an oiled sheet pan and bake at 250°F for 1 hour, raising the temperature to 400°F during the last 5 minutes to brown lightly. Salt if desired and store in an airtight container. Tony's Favorite Recipe Baked Acorn Squash Rings Varieties Acorn squash (also called table queen, Des Moines, and Danish) has an acorn shape with distinct furrows. It is mostly dark green, although there is a golden acorn that can range from yellow to orange in color. (Some green acorn squash will have yellow or orange blotches and, in fact, this is desirable as long as it does not cover more than half the surface.) The flesh of both is yellow-orange and the flavor is mild and sweet. Banana squash is creamy white to pale orange in color, tubular shaped with tapered ends with a golden flesh that is hearty and moist. Butternut squash (also called an African bell) is a light tan color, and bell-shaped with a very flavorful deep orange flesh. Hubbard squash has a bumpy, thick skin with a golden, bluish-gray or green color. The flesh is rich and slightly sweeter than the banana. The Delicata is also called a sweet potato or bohemian squash. It is somewhat cylindrical, although the base may flare out a bit. The yellow shell has furrows with green stripes and reddish-brown mottling. The flesh is pale yellow-orange, with an aroma and mild flavor reminiscent of fresh corn. Sweet Dumpling looks like a squatter cousin to the Delicata with a pale yellow, green-streaked colored skin, flesh that is a deeper, richer orange and an exceptionally sweet flavor. Japanese or Kabocha squash is round with a flattened top and dark green color punctuated by white streaks. The deep orange flesh is flavorful but less moist than most other squash, akin to the fluffiness of a Russet potato. Calabaza is the generic Spanish term for squash (usually from Mexico or the Caribbean.) Squash available commercially under that name is usually round and tan with a mild yellow-orange flesh. Spaghetti squash is noted for its cooked flesh that turns into spaghetti-like strands when scooped out. It is large, yellow, oval, and looks more like a melon than a squash. Mediterranean squash looks like a large butternut on the outside with a similar flesh; it weighs 8 to 10 pounds. Turban squash looks as if it is wrapped in layers. It is mostly red-orange with green and white accents. Though most turban squash, particularly the larger varieties, are better to look at than to eat, the smaller, dark green buttercup has a nutty, sweet, deep orange flesh with a mealy texture that is good for pies. Squash Blossoms are the flowers from both soft and hard-shelled squash. They come in varying shades of yellow and orange, with a flavor similar to the squash itself. Use as a garnish, either slivered or whole, for almost everything from soup to main dishes, or use them to add color and flavor to salads. |
